Losing a car title is stressful, but the fix in Texas is straightforward. You don’t recreate the old paper; you request a Certified Copy of Title using Form VTR-34. That certified copy becomes the legal title and supersedes earlier versions, so it’s the only one that matters once issued. You can apply by mail or in person at a TxDMV Regional Service Center, and you’ll need proper ID and signatures from every owner listed on the record.
Costs are modest. The state charges a small fee by mail and a slightly higher fee in person for the certified copy. If you mail the packet, allow time for processing and delivery; in person, most centers can issue the copy the same day once your number is called. Either way, bring or include copies of acceptable photo ID and make sure all signatures are original in blue or black ink.
If a lien is still recorded—even if the loan is paid—you must provide an original release of lien or have the lienholder apply. When a lien is active, the lienholder or its authorized agent may need to file for the certified copy instead of you. That keeps the chain of ownership clean and prevents conflicting titles from circulating.
Timing also matters. Texas enforces a waiting period if a certified copy was issued very recently; you may need to wait before another can be released. This anti-fraud safeguard ensures only one “current” title is in play at a time.
If you bought a vehicle without a title or your paperwork is incomplete, you’ll likely need a bonded title. You’ll visit a Regional Service Center, file the Statement of Fact (VTR-130-SOF), and—if approved—post a surety bond based on the vehicle’s value before completing title at your county tax office. That process is designed to establish ownership when the regular title trail is broken.
Finally, if you can’t go in person, a limited power of attorney lets a trusted person handle the process for you. Texas provides a standard form for most vehicle transactions, including applying for a certified copy of title, as long as ID rules are followed.
Below are the ten most common follow-up questions Texans ask—and clear, step-by-step answers to each.
The replacement is applying for a Certified Copy of Title. Complete Form VTR-34 with the vehicle identification number, year, and make exactly as shown on the record, plus the full legal names of all recorded owners. If the vehicle is jointly titled, every owner must sign; a missing signature will stall your request. Use blue or black ink and keep your handwriting legible to avoid rejections.
Choose your filing method. By mail, include legible copies of acceptable photo ID for each owner and the required fee payable to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles. In person at a TxDMV Regional Service Center, bring your original ID and the in-person fee; most centers can issue the certified copy the same day after your ticket is called. Appointments are strongly encouraged in busy locations to reduce wait time.
Double-check the lien status before you apply. If a lien still appears in state records, include an original release of lien or coordinate with the lienholder to apply directly. For mail-in packets, use the address printed on the form and allow processing plus mailing time. Keep copies of everything you send.
Tip: if your name has changed since the last title (for example, due to marriage), include supporting name-change documents so the clerk can match your identity to the record.
Plan on three essentials: the VTR-34 application, ID for each owner, and payment. Acceptable identification includes government-issued photo IDs. If a business owns the vehicle, an authorized agent may sign, but include documentation showing that authority—such as a letter on company letterhead or a business card tying the signer to the entity.
For jointly owned vehicles, either all owners sign the application or an owner signs while attaching specific powers of attorney for the others. If the record shows a lien, add the original lien release on lender letterhead or the state’s prescribed release form. Photocopies and scans of lien releases are generally not accepted; originals prevent fraud and speed verification.
Submitting in person? Bring original signatures and your current ID. Submitting by mail? Send clear copies of IDs and original ink signatures on the VTR-34. Do not send cash through the mail. If you previously received a certified copy recently, be mindful of the waiting period before another can be issued.
Before sealing the envelope, verify that VINs, names, and addresses match exactly. Clerical mistakes—like transposed digits in a VIN or a nickname instead of a legal name—are among the most common reasons applications bounce back.
You can download the application and schedule an appointment online, but Texas does not deliver certified copies entirely online. The application itself is filed by mail or in person so IDs and signatures can be verified. That in-person or mail verification step protects you from title fraud and prevents conflicting ownership records.
If you choose mail, follow the checklist carefully: the completed VTR-34, copies of acceptable IDs for every owner, and the proper fee. If you choose in person, bring your physical ID and the in-person fee; many centers issue the certified copy while you’re there. Either route uses the same form, and either route results in a certified paper title that replaces all previous versions.
Expect two fee tiers: a lower fee when you apply by mail and a slightly higher fee when you apply in person at a Regional Service Center. Mail payments are typically made by check, cashier’s check, or money order—never send cash. In person, centers take cash or money order, and many locations also accept cards with a small convenience charge.
These fees apply whether you are the owner or a lienholder requesting a certified copy. If your situation requires a bonded title because you never received a valid negotiable title from the seller, budget for additional costs: a small administrative fee at the Regional Service Center, the cost of a surety bond (based on the vehicle’s value), and normal county tax office title fees.
A smart move is to confirm any fee updates before you go. Fees are modest, but they can change over time, and showing up with the exact amount helps you avoid payment delays at the counter.
Processing time depends on how you apply. Mail-in applications generally take a couple of weeks from the time your packet is received to when the certified copy arrives by post. That window covers intake, verification, printing, and mailing. If you need a title faster, an in-person visit to a Regional Service Center is typically the quickest route; many locations issue the certified copy the same day after your number is called.
One timing caveat is the waiting-period rule. If a certified copy was issued recently, Texas limits how soon another can be printed to reduce fraud. If you’re up against that rule, mark your calendar so you can reapply the moment the window opens.
To keep things moving, ensure every signature is original, every ID copy is clear, and the VIN and names match your registration and insurance documents. Most processing delays are caused by small, fixable errors in those details.
If records show a lien, you must either have the lienholder apply or include an original release of lien with your application. Even fully paid loans can linger on the record if the lender never sent a release. Contact the lender’s title department and request an original release on company letterhead or on the state’s form; ask for wet-ink signatures if possible.
Once your application and valid release are accepted, the state will remove the lien from the title record when issuing the certified copy. That means your new certified copy will show you as the clear owner. If you cannot obtain a release because the lender closed or merged, research the successor entity and request the release there; state agencies and surety companies can point you to the right successor if you’re unsure.
Important limitations apply. If a lien is still legally valid and not satisfied, you aren’t eligible to use the bonded-title route to bypass it. In that case, you’ll need to resolve the debt or pursue legal remedies, such as a court order, before a clean title can be produced.
When the seller can’t provide a negotiable title, the typical solution is a bonded title. Start at a TxDMV Regional Service Center with the Statement of Fact (VTR-130-SOF) and any proof you have of ownership—bill of sale, invoice, canceled check, or signed receipts. An examiner reviews the history, checks for theft records or prior branding, and confirms whether the vehicle is eligible for bonding.
If approved, the state issues a Notice of Determination showing the bond amount, usually 1.5 times the vehicle’s value. You then purchase a surety bond from a licensed insurer for that amount. With the bond in hand, take the notice, the bond, and the standard title application (Form 130-U) to your county tax office to complete the bonded title process.
Expect extra steps if the vehicle came from out of state or isn’t in the database. You may need a vehicle inspection, a weight certificate for certain vehicles, or additional affidavits. Keep all receipts and correspondence; if a prior owner later claims the vehicle, the bond protects both the state and innocent parties during the bond term.
Yes. Texas allows a limited power of attorney for motor vehicle transactions, including applying for a certified copy of title. You, as the principal, complete the POA naming an agent you trust. The agent brings the POA, their ID, your ID copy, and the completed VTR-34 to apply in person or mails the packet on your behalf if mailing is permitted for your situation.
A POA is especially helpful when you’re out of town, deployed, or have mobility issues. It’s also useful for businesses when a fleet manager or title clerk handles paperwork for multiple vehicles. Make sure the POA is accurately filled out and signed, and that names match IDs and the title record exactly.
Remember that the same lien rules apply. If a lien is recorded, the agent will need the original release or cooperation from the lienholder. Clear documentation and tidy signatures are your agent’s best defense against delays.
Mail is the most economical option, ideal when all owners can sign and you aren’t in a rush. Include the completed VTR-34 with original signatures, copies of acceptable IDs for every owner, the proper fee by check or money order, and any original lien release if one is still on file. Mail to the address listed on the form and allow time for processing and delivery.
In person costs a bit more but is usually the fastest path. Bring the completed VTR-34, your ID, and payment to a Regional Service Center. Because a technician reviews your paperwork on the spot, unusual situations—trusts, estates, business ownership, name changes, or POA—get resolved quickly, and many locations issue the certified copy the same day. If your schedule is tight, book an appointment to avoid long waits.
Either route produces the same result: a certified copy of title that becomes the active, legal title for your vehicle.
If your vehicle is Texas-titled but you currently live out of state, you can still apply by mail. Make sure every recorded owner signs the VTR-34, include clear copies of IDs, and enclose the correct fee. If a lien remains on record, coordinate with the lender for an original release or have the lienholder submit the request directly.
If you need someone in Texas to help, a limited power of attorney allows an agent to apply in person. That can speed things up if you’re facing a deadline, selling the car, or shipping it.
For vehicles purchased with no title where you need a bonded title, plan ahead. Bonded titles generally require Texas residency or qualifying status; if you’re relocating, it may be simpler to complete the bonded title while you are physically in Texas. Keep copies of all paperwork because shipping titles across state lines can add mailing time and create opportunities for errors if names or addresses don’t match.
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